A New Way Forward

I don’t think I’m alone in feeling, as August draws to a close and September arrives, that this is my real new year; that I will be starting again, refreshed and revived, in September, as summer fades and autumn begins.

July and August are the harvest months, with September and October the months to plant and sew for the following year. It is an age old rotation, a rhythm that feels deeply ingrained and familiar. New follows old, we begin again.

It’s easy to forget that the clothes we wear start their lives in very different forms: as cotton buds, wood pulp, wool from a sheep’s back. The fibres that we knit and weave go through many processes and transformations before they arrive on our shelves, carefully wrapped and packaged, ready to start a new life in our wardrobes - and it is this (potentially damaging) processing that was the source of much writing and discussion at the fabric fairs this year.

Both Future Fabrics in London and Premiere Vision in Paris have their eyes keenly focused on sustainability; the former has had this as their raison d’être since their launch, the latter because it is now not possible to work in the fashion industry and remain unaware of environmental issues.

We don’t have to go far to hear that global temperatures are still rising. As one of the biggest industries on the planet, the fashion industry has played their part in this, with a combination of over-production and destructive production techniques. However, huge steps are now being taken to innovate and reform, creating incredible advancements in new fibre technologies and production methods.

‘Supporting the regeneration of ecosystems and the reduction of greenhouse gas emissions that come from fibre and raw material production is a critical priority and driving mission of the Future Fabrics Expo.’

Last year at Premiere Vision saw the launch of their ‘better way’ programme, which aims to reinforce its eco-responsible approach and help visitors develop their environmentally conscious collections, through clear sourcing routes. Over 300 exhibitors now take part in the programme, which highlights social initiatives, environmental impact, composition, traceability and durability/end of life performance.

And for me, it is the idea of regenerative farming that I have found resonating most loudly. This is agriculture with a focus on conservation and rehabilitation; its goal is topsoil regeneration, increased biodiversity and to support natural ways of carbon sequestration.

While organic farming has been shown to improve the wellbeing of farmers and the diversity of wildlife, it has not resolved the issue of mono-culture production, where vast swathes of the earth’s surface are dedicated to the production of only one or two crops. So what we need to move towards now, are more focused, localised solutions that tackle not just the problem of fertiliser and pesticide use, but rather ones that will also begin to rebuild the soil and encourage local biodiversity. This is the goal of regenerative farming.

New developments in synthetic and recycled fibres absolutely have their place. But for me, it will always be the natural fibres that feel and perform best. The question we face, therefore, is how do we maintain our planet without over production and further destruction; how do we maintain quality, handfeel and performance of the fabrics we use, without artificial, oil based yarns. 

I don’t have all the answers, but I do have a faith in the vast inventiveness of the human mind, and a trust that, if we are having these initial conversations now - highlighting these important subjects - we have the intelligence and capacity to find and apply solutions in the years to come.

Further information:

If you haven’t had a chance yet, definitely watch Kiss the Ground. It is one of the most encouraging and exciting explorations of the climate crisis and regenerative farming as a potential solution.

Discover Knepp Farm: a trailblazing 3,500-acre rewilding project changing the way we think about nature and how we can heal our planet.

Copyright elliot. organics 2024